VIGAN
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]About 400 kilometers from Manila is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Vigan. It is the capital city of Ilocos Sur located on the west coast of northern Luzon. One can see precious remnants of old Spanish architecture throughout the center of the city. Established in the 16th century, Vigan is the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia with a unique European atmosphere. Several museums exist for the many national heroes that were born here. Vigan is the oldest surviving Spanish colonial city in the Philippines. The name Vigan was derived from “Biga”, a giant taro plant that grows abundantly along the banks of the Mestizo River.
HISTORY
In pre-colonial times, Vigan was an important trading post for Chinese junks, trading gold beeswax and other products from the central Cordilleras for exotic Asian goods. Many Chinese traders settled in the mestizo district, marrying locals and starting new bloodlines.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Vigan was captured and settled by the Spanish in 1572, and grew to become a centre of Spanish political and religious power in the north of Luzon. In 1758 Vigan became the Seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia.
Interestingly the town was also a hotbed of anti-Spanish politics. Diego Silang was perhaps the most notable resistance leader, but was assassinated by his friends (on commission from the Spanish) in May 1763. Undeterred, Silang’s wife, Maria Josefa Gabriela Silang, assumed leadership of the uprising but was later captured by the Spanish and publicly hanged in on September 20, 1763.
Local legend has it that Vigan got its name from a simple communication breakdown. A Spaniard walking along the Metizo River apparently met a local and asked which the city’s name. Not understanding what he was being asked, but seeing that the Spaniard seemed to be pointing to a tree, replied “Bigaa Apo” (a giant Taro plant that was common in the area). It is from the word “Bigaa” that Vigan is said to have derived its name.
ORIENTATION
Vigan is a relatively small city with two hearts: the recreational and shopping area around the adjacent Plaza Salcedo and Plaza Burgos in the north, and the commercial centre around the public market in the south. The mestizo district is focused along Plaridel and Mena Crisologo Streets, running south from Plaza Burgos towards the cemetery.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]There is a helpful and friendly provincial tourist information office south west of Plaza Burgos (next to Cafe Leona) that can dispense information on Vigan and the rest of Ilocos Sur. Banks with ATMs accepting foreign credit cards are dotted about the city, as are internet cafes with access from P20 per hour. Some restaurants offer Wi-Fi access.
GETTING THERE
By Bus or Car
It’s seven to ten hours’ drive along the scenic Ilocos Highway from Manila to Vigan. Partas Bus Co., Dominion Bus Lines, Viron Transit, and St. Joseph/Aniceto Transit have regular buses going directly to Vigan. Bus lines like Philippine Rabbit Bus Line, Farinas Transit, Maria de Leon, and RCJ Transit have regular buses plying the Manila-Laoag route, which passes by Vigan.
By Plane
Interisland Airlines[1] flies to Mindoro Airport[2], also known as Vigan Airport, is the airport serving the general area of Vigan City or you could go to Laoag’s airport(1.5 hours by car), the Laoag International Airport. Philippine Airlines flies to from Laoag everyday of the week from Manila. Cebu Pacific flies three times a week from Manila.
GETTING AROUND
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]A fun throwback to colonial days are the calesa horse-drawn carriages that still clip-clop through Vigan’s streets. Rates for calesa rides should be the same as those for the many tricycles (P8-P10 within the city limits) that will undoubtedly by vying for your custom. But you could also hire a private calesa for around 150php per hour.
Unless you’re absolutely sure you have a tour guide that will give you in depth information about the sites you’re visiting, A whole day calesa adventure for about 1000 (roughly 6-7 hours)would be advisable. You can take your time visiting the sites and not being rushed by a guide, as well as picking and choosing the areas you want to visit.
ATTRACTIONS
The Mestizo District offers a wonderful glimpse into the Philippines’ colonial past. The ancestral houses were mostly built by Chinese traders using a mixture of local, Asian and Spanish architectural styles. Movie fans recognize the streets from the movie Born on the Fourth of July. If someone looks closely, there are still evidence left from the shooting, e.g. signs in Spanish but hastily and thinly painted over with white paint.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral (admission free) was built by Augustinians around 1790 and features a unique design intended to minimize earthquake damage; a style that came to be known as “earthquake baroque”. Look out for the brass communion handrails forged in China, complete with Chinese characters scrawled by its ancient installers (if you look closely).
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]The eight-sided bell tower is just south of the cathedral. Its position was actually the safety measure of the earthquake baroque style: it was built separately from the church so that in case of earthquakes, it would not topple into the church. Its eight-sided design reflects its Chinese Feng-shui influences. One would look closely inside the cathedral and one would find the tombstone of the great Ilocano poet Leona Florentino (in the column near the entrance facing Plaza Burgos).
Just adjacent to the Cathedral is the Archbishop’s Residence, which dates back to the Spanish Era–the oldest archbishop’s residence still in use in the Philippines.
Plaza Salcedo west of the cathedral features a 17th Century monument to Juan de Salcedo, and was also the site of resistance leader Gabriela Silang’s public hanging in 1763.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Plaza Burgos is a favourite hang out for locals. It is also used for staging major public events. It has also food stalls selling native snacks, notably the empanada.
The Ayala Museum used to be the home of Father Jose Burgos but now houses Ilocano artifacts, weapons, kitchen utensils, basketry, costumes, jewellery and Burgos Memorabilia. There are also some dioramas showing important events in the history of Ilocos Sur, and a mini library. Beside the museum is the Ilocos Sur Provincial Jail, where the Philippines first Ilocano president, the late Pres. Elpidio Quirino, was born.
The Crisologo Museum used to be the home of the late Congressman Floro Crisologo and wife Carmeling, former governor of Ilocos Sur. It contains memorabilia of the late Congressman.
ACTIVITIES
Take a swim at the nearby Mindoro Beach Resort.
Visit Baluarte, the governor’s fortress. It also features a mini zoo with exotic animals and you can get a free ride with the small horses.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Try your hand at pottery. Vigan’s Pagburnayan makes burnay jars which are made of sand and fire-blasted in a huge kiln.
Ride a calesa, a horse-drawn carriage, around Vigan and the surrounding towns.
Witness old women weave abel at Camangaan.
Visit St. Augustine Church in nearby Bantay and climb up its belfry to get a breath-taking view of the town.
Join the Viva Vigan and Binatbatan Festivals when it happens.
PRODUCTS
Abel-Weaving and Abel Iloco – Abel-weaving is one of the few surviving traditional crafts in Vigan. Historically, the high demand for the famous handwoven abel Iloco nearly killed the Spanish weaving industry during the galleon trade era. At least three barangays in the city still have abel-weavers, best-known of which is Barangay Camangaan as it produces much of the local abel products available in Vigan’s souvenir shops located along the Crisologo Street and the Vigan Public Market. The other two barangays with abel-weavers are Mindoro and San Pedro.
Abel-weaving involves the use of a wooden handloom and other accessories. The wooden handloom was the equivalent of a sewing machine in the past, and it produced most of the fabrics used in the homes, including clothes, blankets, and pillowcases. The material used to make the abel fabrics was cotton yarn (sagut). As it is known, the northern Philippines, particularly, grew cotton plants whose flowers were then intricately and lengthily processed in the homes to produce yarn.
On the whole, abel-weaving follows a very intricate process – from preparing and dyeing the yarn, to arranging different colors of yarn to produce the desired design, and operating the wooden handloom with the synchronized movement of both hands and feet.
Abel Iloko products included blankets and bed covers, pillow cases, mosquito nets, bath towels and robes, hand towels, place mats and table napkins, runners, hand towels and other fabrics for clothing material. Traditional colors and designs, which had similarities with the Cordilleran designs, were used in these products.
SHOPPING
There are dozens of antique and souvenir shops dotted about the city, particularly on Crisologo and Plaridel Streets in the mestizo district. Although most of the antiques are only reproductions, you’ll still enjoy browsing the odd items of religious paraphernalia (look out for the toddler Jesus figurines).and some unique foods.
There are several stores in Vigan that sell religious artifacts like the images of the Blessed Virgin Mary, or statues of saints, the First Family (Sagrado de Familia), crucifixes, etc. When buying these religious artifacts, make sure to bargain and get the receipts. Also, have the owner of the store pack them carefully because these are fragile and could easily be broken.I don’t recommend visitors to buy the bigger religious statues as shipping abroad is very expensive. Extra luggages costs $160.00. But, if you find a really good deal, then it’s worth buying them as long as you request the store owner to pack them carefully with bubble wrap! It depends on what you are buying
FOOD and DELICACIES
Popular snack stands along Plaza Burgos serve up a variety of local treats, among others, like:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] sinanglao (soup made from beef innards)
arroz caldo (rice soup with chicken)
miki (flat noodles in a thick soup with meat bits and sometimes drizzled with eggs)
empanada (turnover with a filling of eggs, Vigan longganisa/sausage and vegetables wrapped in a rice flour crust/shell)
okoy (a pancake made with local shrimp).
Nobody should leave Vigan without tasting their empanada. It is a different concoction from the flour-based empanada that one usually knows.
Royal Bibingka is very popular at Tongson’s Royal Bibingka, #8 Florentino St., Vigan City–just a street away from Plaza Burgos.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Also, one should have a try of the Vigan longganisa which is spicy unlike its Pampanga counterpart which is sweetish.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] There is also a delicacy called tinubong, a sticky sweet rice cake that’s sold in bamboo tubes, and you have to break the bamboo to eat the sticky sweet rice inside. They are usually sold in the Heritage Village in bundles of three to five.
Fried tasty corn (cornick) can also be bought in the various stalls. It comes plain or flavoured.
Native sugar is also made in surrounding towns and barangays of Vigan. However, they are in the form of tagapulot (molasses) and balikutsa (a very hard sugar concoction shaped into scrolls).
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] basi – a local wine (native rum) made from sugarcane.
FESTIVALS
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Tres de Mayo
What we consider our community feast day is held on the 3rd of May. While every barangay or village within the poblacion of Vigan celebrates Tres De Mayo, it seems to have more meaning in Pagbantayan or Pagburnayan because the center of the celebration is the Capilla ni Apo Lakay or the Vigan Municipal Cemetery Chapel that is in the peripheral.
The capilla is one of the most beautiful features of hispanic Vigan. It looks like the mission churches of Mexico and Southern California but with a dome. It stands dramatically located at the southern end of the main street where it meets the main road to the western and eastern barangays of Vigan.
It houses a black Nazarene which according to legends, was salvaged from a sunken Spanish galleon west of Vigan. It is said that when the crucified black Christ was being carried to the Metropolitan Cathedral, it suddenly became so heavy and unmovable so the people thought that Apo Lakay wanted to stay where the chapel now stands. It has been the blessed object of veneration for devotees especially during Lent and Tres de Mayo. Catholics from all over the country come to pray & kiss the wooden hands of Apo Lakay.
Tres de Mayo is also the day when the saintly Queen Helena, finding the Holy Cross with son, Constantine is dramatized in the chapel’s courtyard. According to the religious, the significance of this event is the resurgence of Catholicism in Europe with the powerful monarchies as patrons and protectors of the Church.
It is during fiesta that our cultures are presented in varied forms such as arts, games, Santa Helena-Prince Constantine pageant, candle light procession, and the night long Zarzuela or Komedya. Some organizations also hold fund raising Beauty Contests and community dances.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Semana Santa
Semana Santa or Lenten season in Vigan, Ilocos Sur is unique and fiesta-like atmosphere. On Palm Sunday, the Church is crowded at all services, as people thronged in from surrounding barangays/villages. The people bring their own palm branches as did the Jews on the first Palm Sunday centuries ago.
The procession of colorful life-size statues of Jesus Christ and saints are one of its attraction. The procession representing scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ that passed around the old city?s main streets and ends at St. Paul Cathedral. The floats are all decorated and lit up with candle lights. These life-size images are owned and maintained by private families of Vigan. In some century-old houses it resembles the interior of church filled with statues. Watching the throngs of people in all walks of life who participated the Holy Friday services is a manifestation of Filipino devotion to Jesus Christ?s Sacred Passion. In nearby Plaza Jose Burgos is converted into open flea market. Booths display their wares, woven blankets-abel , dried sea foods, native edibles such as empanada, okoy, bagnet, chicaron, and farm tools.
In early years, these booths in public plaza are practical necessity for the poor people who trekked a long distance on foot and really need food upon reaching the city.
HOTELS and RESORTS
Villa Angela Heritage House –#26 Quirino Blvd, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur 2700, Philippines (2 Streets away from Calle Crisologo), checkin: 2:00 PM; checkout: 12:00 PM the next day.Staying at Villa Angela would give you the authentic Vigan experience with the true feel of the fast vanishing lifestyle of yesteryears. Though all rooms are equipped with the modern comforts of air-conditioning, cable TV, exclusive toilet and bath and more; the classic heritage identity is preserved. Please visit
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Hotel Salcedo De Vigan — V. de los Reyes corner General Luna Streets, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur 2700.Your stay at Vigan city will be more romantic if you’ll stay in Hotel Salcedo De Vigan. Their air-conditioned rooms are very spacious and well-appointed. They have a casual yet elegant setting to enjoy superb local and international cuisine. Visit their website:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Grandpa’s Inn -- 1 Bonifacio St. cor. Quirino Blvd; email:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.];A charming old residence and is also one of the cheapest options in town. The downstairs restaurant serves good food (from P60) and even espresso (P35).
Taj Resort — Pantay daya, Vigan
R.F. Anicieto Mansion Hotel — near Plaza Burgos
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Vigan Plaza Hotel – Mena Crisologo Street, Brgy 2 (near Plaza Burgos) Showcasing Spanish-Colonial accommodations combined with modern luxury.
Vigan Hotel – Burgos Street. Basic hotel in an old colonial house with old-stile wooden floors and furnitures. The rooms are very basic but acceptable. PHP 500-800. edit
La Feliza Tourist Inn — # 8 V. delos Reyes St.
Mom’s Courtyard — Bongtolan
Socio-Pastoral Center — besides the Archbishop Palace
Cordillera Inn — Crisologo St.
Gordion Inn — V. delos Reyes St.
Fernandina Hotel & Restaurant — 26 A. Mabini St.
El Juliana Hotel — 5 Liberation Blvd. Cor Quirino Blvd
Gordion Hotel (Gordion Inn) — V. Delos Reyes corner Salcedo Sts. A charming little hotel set in and around an ancestral home, located near the center of the city. Php 2000 per night with breakfast for 2.
MAP
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